Desert Driving

The hubs, a housemate and I hit the road yesterday morning. Destination: Dubai. We're on a week and a half vacation from school because of the Muslim holiday Eid al Futr. We decided to take advantage of the time off and see some more of Arabia.

...SIXTEEN HOURS LATER, the hubs and I arrived at the apartment where we will be staying while we're in this particular Emirate. This city is sooo hard to navigate, the map we bought is total crap, and the SIM card we bought for my cell phone decided to putz out on us at the most inconvenient times!

The 10 or so hours that it took us to actually arrive in Dubai would normally make me groan with I-don't-wanna-be-in-the-car-anymore-Mom brattiness, but because we'd never been on a road trip in Saudi Arabia before, the desert portion of our trip flew by! Even though all we saw was just sand with the occasional bedouin-guided herd of camels, I couldn't get enough of the view out my window.

Here are a few shots (they got uploaded out of order):

This is the Burj Khalifa. The world's tallest building. We did a few circles around it trying to find our way back to the highway that would take us to the apartment.

Some sand and rock...standard Saudi Arabia.

At the border...it took us another hour at the Arrivals Hall at the border before we could actually BE in the UAE.

There they are! The first camels I've seen since arriving in KSA! (that's no lie!)

This was the view for most of the trip.

Today we venture out to the Dubai Aquarium and some much needed time with an American bookstore. I'm giddy as a school girl!

Vicariously yours,

Strange how it rains now...

I work at an Islamic school. That means we have gender separation. Obviously I work on the girls side. Some days my job description resembles that of a slumber party chaperone more than that of a teacher. Girls are the same here as they are at home, especially when you gather them in large numbers. I regularly hear peals of glee or gratuitous screams filtering in to my classroom from the halls.

But yesterday, just after the last bell had rung and the screams had started, the cries took on another tone and weren't subsiding as quickly as they usually do.

The teachers from the English cluster came out into the hallway to figure out what all the fuss was about. One of my 10th grade students came running by NASCAR style and stopped right in front of me long enough to say, "IT'S RAINING!!"

Yes. All the screaming, yelling, and jumping up and down was all because it had started to "rain" outside. At home we would have used the term "sprinkle," but I didn't have the heart to burst my student's bubble.

The excitement was contagious. I ran and grabbed my camera and headed outside. Ironically, these girls were having the most Biblical reaction to anything I've ever seen in my life. They were singing, they were dancing, and there were even some of them praying! It was so interesting to watch!

I'm told that yesterday was the first time it had rained since last winter. That's at least 7 months since these girls had seen rain in their country. There are so many things we take for granted in the West, and precipitation is definitely one of them.

The rain had stopped after about 10 minutes, but of course I made sure to snap a few pictures before it all passed. It's hard to capture rain in motion, but you can see the proof on the sidewalk around my feet!

See?! See those dots on the sidewalk?

This is my Canadian colleague. She thought the whole situation was just as funny as I did.

Vicariously yours,

CLOUDS!!

I thought it was so funny this morning when we emerged from our respective gates to find that there was a tower of clouds in the sky behind our house! At home, this would never be cause for alarm or excitement of any sort, but this morning all of the residents of my house were standing in the street, faces upturned, just looking at the ONE massive cloud and the sun rays bursting from behind it.

I was so excited I took a picture of it. I took a picture of a cloud. And it's not even a particularly spectacular cloud.

It was literally the first cloud I'd seen since the Mister and I left Amsterdam on September 13.

As we loaded up the car for our daily commute to work, I laughed at myself. I imagined our neighbors coming out to their cars for work and seeing a line of Americans standing in the street, in awe of a cloud and thinking how weird we must be. "Honey, look at the silly white people!"

I didn't think there would be any more fuss about it until I got to school and the first thing a student said to me in the hall was, "Teacher did you see the cloud today?!" My colleagues were all abuzz about it when I got to my classroom: "I know! It's the first cloud since last winter! And it's so big and pretty! Amber! Did you see the cloud this morning!?"

We all were like little kids at the circus! Over A CLOUD! ONE! CLOUD!

The thought struck me as so funny I've been chuckling about it all day. I just thought I would share it with those of you at home in the land of daily clouds.

Vicariously yours,

Pleasure Island

Our readers in Saudi Arabia already know that Bahrain is an island kingdom about 16 miles off the coast, and the bridge to Bahrain happens to be very close to where we live! Since the Mister and I hadn't activated our multi-entry visas yet, we decided to take a day trip.

In the distance is what we've decided to call "Border Island." It's literally an island in the archipelago where you cross the border from one kingdom to another. It looks like Tomorrowland.

The Bahraini flag.

We had no idea what to expect. By the way our students and fellow teachers talk, it sounded like Bahrain was Saudi Arabia's version of Pleasure Island: women don't have to be covered and they can drive, there are movie theaters, alcohol and pork. It sounded like we could go there to get our fix of Western sins if we got a hankerin' for a beer and some real brats.

In our excitement, we just left town blindly, with no idea where to go once we got to Bahrain. So we decided to drive around for a bit and see what we could see.

I probably have a hundred of shots like this from over the course of our relationship. He's just so cute!

We dubbed this "The Red Village." We're ridiculously creative.

The first proper skyscrapers we've seen since we left the States.

After taking a spin around Manama--we think that's the capital...at least it has the biggest dot on the maps--we decided to go crazy and visit the City Center. To most Americans, the term "city center" elicits mental images of public parks, market places, and other such attractions. Nope. In Bahrain, the city center is a mall.

We had left Saudi Arabia, land of the mega mall, and went to a different mall in Bahrain. But let's not dwell on the fact. This mall has a water park, something Saudi Arabia does not have.

AND it's on the roof of the parking garage! NO ONE has that!

The name of the water park is "Wahooo." In my head, I sing it like the old Yahoo commercials at home.

As we were walking around the City Center, we saw a lot of European tourists and American faces. Bahrain is a bit of a vacation spot--tourism is one of its main industries. It struck me that in all likelihood, none of these tourists would be able to go across the causeway to Saudi Arabia, Bahrain is as close as they were gonna get. I have no idea if any of them had a desire to visit, but it occurred to me that most of them might assume that since they had visited Bahrain, they were getting a good idea of what Saudi Arabia is really like.

That could not be further from the truth. By now ya'll know I love me some lists, so here is a list of the reasons why Bahrain is not Saudi Arabia 2.0.

1. The obvious. Bahrain has alcohol. Bahrain has pork. Bahrain has movie theaters. Bahrain has uncensored bookstores. Women don't have to cover in Bahrain, though many still do.

2. Bahrain is clean. One of the things that has made the biggest impression on me in Saudi Arabia is all the litter. There is trash literally EVERYWHERE! No one cleans up after themselves and it's disgusting. Children will throw trash out the car windows, and empty shopping bags are constantly blowing down the highway. The flattened left overs of someone's filafil is the road kill of Saudi Arabia.

But there was absolutely none of that in Bahrain. The sidewalks were clear. The walkways in the mall were not littered with discarded toys or straw wrappers. Yet we never saw a single janitor.

Now, the hubsy and I have been given the impression that the entire Eastern province empties itself onto Bahrain every weekend. All our students talk about is their weekends in Bahrain. The other teachers have a second home on the island. So if there are really that many Saudis on Bahrain every weekend, then you would think that the entire island would be just as trashed as their kingdom...but it's not! And since we didn't see any custodial staff, we can only conclude that 1). the janitors are ninjas or 2). the Saudis actually do know how to clean up after themselves. It's genuinely perplexing, and I think many return trips are in order to continue our anthropological research.

3. Bahrain has a dating scene. The Mister and I went to see movies during our visit, but we went to different ones. It's such a rare treat, I didn't want to spend my money going to see something I didn't want to see. He went to see The Town and I went to see The Switch (both were heavily censored, but we'll take what we can get). Because we got out at different times, I was stuck waiting for him for about an hour. That allowed for some great people-watching opportunities.

I saw people on dates. Young people. Arms around shoulders and obvious flirtation. That is totally haram in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (for those playing the home game, "haram" means "forbidden" in Arabic). We occasionally see couples holding hands in KSA, but definitely no other outward signs of affection. I felt like I was watching a typical movie theater lobby at home, but with a LOT more abayas and niqabs.

I felt so much at home that at one point I gave my husband a peck on the cheek. I immediately said, "Oops. I'm not sure if I'm allowed to do that or not." I had forgotten where we were for a second.

4. Bahrain allows women to work. Ok, that's not fair. According to a news article I read recently, 15% of the women in Saudi Arabia have jobs. That's significantly less than the surrounding Gulf states, but some women do work in Saudi Arabia. But they're not allowed to work in places where they are intermingled with men. That means none of the mall stores in Saudi Arabia are staffed with women. This proved to be most annoying when I went to Sephora to buy some make up, and I was faced with asking a man for advice as to which concealer is best.

In Bahrain, the make up stores, the lingerie stores, and all the other female-centered stores all had female employees. As did every other store and restaurant in the mall. You just don't see things like that in Saudi Arabia.

5. Traffic laws are obeyed in Bahrain. We weren't forced out of our lane by a drifting SUV once. The red lights meant stop, not creep forward a few feet every few seconds until it turns green. There were no crazy speeders that blew past us on the shoulder of the road. Again, if most of Saudi Arabia is in Bahrain every weekend, and the drivers in Bahrain appear to be sane, WHY CAN'T THEY DRIVE LIKE THAT IN SAUDI ARABIA!?

It sounds like I'm hatin' on Saudi Arabia right now, so I feel the need to clarify. My husband and I are very very happy here. The people have been very welcoming, and we are absolutely loving our cultural experience. There are obviously some things that bother me about our new home, but we are very quickly getting used to them. It's just that all these little things became very obvious today when they were absent during our trip to Bahrain.

Anyway, there are more photos from our trip on my Facebook page.

Vicariously yours,

Saudi Female Wardrobe: a tutorial

One of the first questions people asked me after they found out I was moving to Saudi Arabia was, "Are you going to have to wear the...you know...thing." Usually while pantomiming circles around their heads.

My answer was yes, and that generally elicited a few guffaws.

Most people back home just call the entire black get-up the "burka." But if you were to tell a woman who wears the hijab that you admire her burka, she's going to laugh at you and possibly get a little offended. Allow me to school you on the wardrobe of the Saudi woman.

This is a hijab (pronounced "hih-job"...or habab if you're my friend Kimmie)

(although Laura Bush is wearing it like a Kuwaiti in this picture. Saudis don't show any hair.)

In Saudi Arabia, 99% of the hijabs you see are black. Some will be mostly black with a little embroidery around the corners for decoration. You rarely see any other color as the dominate hue on the hijabs. I'm not sure why that is, because in other places in the Middle East, you see colorful fabrics and patterns.

Like this. I think this is perfectly lovely, but it's not acceptable in Saudi Arabia

The hijab shows your face, and depending on which region you're from, you can show a little hair. The looser your hijab is, the less conservative you are. If you're a Saudi woman, your hijab will be on and be on properly.

Some women don't wear the hijab. Note: when I say "wear the hijab" I mean all the time. ALL Muslim women in Saudi Arabia wear at least the hijab when they're out in public. But when a woman says she "wears the hijab," that means she wears it all the time, whether she is with women, men, or mixed company...for the most part. I work with a woman who "wears the hijab," but she doesn't wear it at school. However, if we take a photograph of her, she will stop us until she has put her hijab on. It's complicated, and I've not explained all the ins and outs, but I'll move on.

Most Saudi women also wear the niqab in addition to the hijab.

This is a niqab. (pronounced "nee-cob")

Note: I did not take any of the pictures posted. They were already on the internet, so I haven't invaded anyone's privacy.

What most people in the West would probably call the "burka" is actually the niqab. The niqab goes on top (or in front of, I guess) the hijab. It kind of looks like a bandana with a slit cut in it and straps attached so it can be tied to your head. So when the ladies are suiting up to leave school for the day, they put on their hijabs, and then tie the niqab on. Some will even put gloves on their hands as further coverage.

Generally, the wider the opening of your niqab, the less conservative a woman is, but let me be clear: women who wear the niqab are greatly respected here. I kind of equate it with a vegan among vegetarians. Vegetarians already live a different lifestyle. But when a vegetarian finds out a person is vegan, they often respond with, "Wow! How do you discipline yourself like that? I couldn't do it." That's how women are here. The women I have talked to who wear the niqab don't feel like it is demeaning or disparaging. They feel like it is their way to show their level of faith and to bring themselves closer to Allah.

This is the abaya (pronounced "uh-bye-uh")

This one is on a mannequin, obviously. It's the closest I could get to the typical abaya you see in KSA

The abaya is the black dress/robe/housecoat that most people assume covers from head to toe. Actually, the hijab combined with the abaya is what most people see. Generally, if a woman wears the abaya, she also wears the hijab, so it's hard to find one without the other.

Around here, though, you see a lot of women only wearing the abaya...but they are "Aramcons." Aramcons are the non-Muslim employees (or the wives of the employees) of Aramco, the Arab American oil company that is based in Dammam. In my experience, Aramcon women have almost a visceral aversion to the abaya and hijab. They seem to resent that they have to cover in this country, so they only do the bare minimum to escape the scrutiny of the mutawa. We often see Aramco women walking around the malls in just their abayas and their heads uncovered. Once I even saw two Aramco women walking completely uncovered!

Whenever the Mister and I go on the Aramco camp, the first thing I'm told when we meet up with our friends is, "You don't have to wear that thing here! Take it off!" Some don't seem to understand when I tell them that I really don't mind wearing it. It gets hot and stuffy sometimes, but it's not a big deal.

Anyway, Muslim women all wear the abaya here. As with the niqab, it seems the less frills and decoration, the more conservative you are. There are some very pretty abayas on the market. They have nice embroidery or cut is flattering. The expensive ones are made of really nice fabrics and they flutter and flow as the women walk past. I think it's quite ethereal.

I'll tell you more about the wardrobe of the women of Arabia in another post, including a video showing you how to tie to hijab. Until then, take a look at this video about why women cover themselves. I didn't find it terribly convincing, but it was interesting nonetheless.

Vicariously yours,

today is november 3rd, 2010. mr. president?

About an hour or so ago, I found out that my 11th grade AP US History teacher died in a car accident. This is the same teacher that taught Amber, Amber's sister, both of my siblings, and literally hundreds of Bruins. She is one of a handful of teachers that inspired me to be a teacher. So as I sit here remembering Mrs. Bayrd, I thought I would share what affected me most from being in her class, and how that translates to where I am now.

Mrs. Bayrd was one of those teachers that never let you just learn about the normal stuff. She always exposed us to things that were important, but not clichéd. Her famous "meat packing plant" unit is the stuff that you dream about as a history teacher: rapt attention from your students as you weave an elaborate story that combines personal experience, historical fact, literary references, and just a dash of macabre humor. I know that my lecture style today has a Mrs. Bayrd side (the rest is equal parts Ms. Simpson and Mr. Faircloth...3rd & 7th grade respectively). I straight up stole the "open festering puss-filled wound" line (a more than accurate description of the sectional conflict that led to the Civil War). I absorbed knowledge in her class, but I also absorbed her spirit for teaching.

At the time, I was just entertained. I honestly don't think I was ready for AP...a lot of it went right over my head. I didn't read like I should have, and I did okay on the AP test. But I know my love for American history was born right there in that classroom to the sound of "Mr. President?" I could listen to her teach for the whole long period on flex Wednesday...and even enjoy it. And that's half the battle right there, isn't it? As a teacher, getting and keeping the students' attention is how you spend 60% of your energy. She won that battle the moment she stepped up to the projector. Every. Day.

But the most important thing that I remember about Mrs. Bayrd was that she wanted us to matter. A lot of teachers try and pull the "Dead Poet's Society" inspirational move...but she never needed to. I always knew that she expected something more of us. Not just because we were in AP, but because we were individuals with gifts. A year or so ago, I went to a session on teaching local history in Franklin, TN and ran into her. It was the first time I had seen her as a colleague. And I'm not gonna lie...I was excited to show off the fact that I was a teacher. I wanted her to be proud of me. She didn't recognize me at first (more facial hair, less acne) but she was excited to hear that I was teaching and she looked proud of me...which is the best complement that a student can ever have. I was doing something that mattered.

Mrs. Bayrd died in a car accident while she was on a road trip through Greece. Amber made the comment that she must have been having the time of her life. I know that she was. It is sad that we won't be able to be at home for any vigils or memorial services, but she would be proud of us for being here. It was a Guam/John conundrum coming here...(but for us more like Saudi/friends & family) and I know that she would approve of our choice to go on an adventure. We're living our lives to the absolute fullest, and she was the champion of that.

Mrs. Bayrd meant so much to so many students that it would be foolish of me to try and cover every "Bayrdism" or say exactly what she means to her students. I can't really even say all of the ways that she has affected me.

All I can really say is thanks.

Mrs. Bayrd. I'm gonna miss you.

Vicariously Yours,

Say what now?!

We have some interesting characters in the house with us. Living upstairs, we have two lonely, single men. Well, lonely isn't the right word because it makes them sound desperate...but you can definitely tell that neither of them have seen or talked to an unmarried woman since he arrived in the country.

The other night, I mentioned to them that I had invited a co-worker of mine to dinner at the house. She had just arrived from Canada and I thought she would enjoy a little camaraderie.

"Really?" one of the guys said, "...is she married?"

I chuckled a little bit and said that she wasn't. Both stayed quiet for a little while. After about ten minutes, one of them, we'll call him "Michael," said, "Wouldn't it be funny if we went home and studied up on Canada to impress her with our knowledge of her home?"

We all laughed. I thought it was so funny that he had been thinking about her visit this whole time.

The other single fella, we'll call him "Neil," laughed and began a hypothetical conversation with my female colleague, who wasn't in the room.

"So," he said, "that election of 1873. It was crazy, wasn't it?"

Everyone in the room thought this was hilarious and we all started chiming in with hypothetical cheesy pick-up lines related to the US's northern neighbor. The men were rapid-firing with the jokes and we were all having a great laugh.

Keep in mind that our Thai house mate was also with us, and she doesn't speak much English. She was barely keeping up with our normal conversation, but she was being a good sport and laughing along at all the fake flirtation, even though she didn't really understand what was being said.

After a minute or so, Neil says in a lusty voice--still to my colleague who is not in the room--"So, ever been to Regina?" which is said with a long "i." It's a city in Alberta. It mean "queen" in Latin. It rhymes with a certain...female body part.

"...what did you say?!" the petite voice of our innocent Thai neighbor half whispered.

To borrow a phrase from my mother-in-law, we all died laughing! The expression on her face was so funny, and once we all realized what she thought Neil had said, it was even more hilarious.

I am definitely so thankful to have such good-humored and fun people around us all the time. It's nights like that one that have certainly made this move considerably more fun.

Vicariously yours,