Saturday, September 5, 2015

Home Sweet Home

We might be in a bit of a honeymoon phase, but Tyler and I really love our apartment here in Melbourne. It is the smallest place we have ever lived, but the location is fantastic and the small size makes cleaning a breeze. There is a grocery store literally in our backyard...if we had a backyard. There are butcher shops and fresh fruit shops just a few doors down from our building, and the train station is a short 3 minute walk away. Now we just need to work on doing our favorite thing: Filling our home with friends and hosting visitors.

We made some progress on that mission today by hosting some new Australian friends for a Southern fried chicken lunch. Since we were having folks over for the first time, we spiffed the place up a bit and had a reason to put some final touches on settling in. We still have a few things to hang on a couple of the walls, but the place is presentable enough now to warrant some photos up on the ol' blog. These will have to tide y'all over until you come to visit.

The first impression: Before


This is the view we had when we first walked in the door on the day we got the keys. I put tape down on the carpet to map out the furniture we had picked out at ikea to make sure it would fit before we made any purchases. I guess you could say this is the living room, though it's technically the living room, dining room, and kitchen all in one. The master bedroom is the one on the left and the guest bathroom is the dark door on the right.

The first impression: After


We had to set up a kitchen island because, as you'll see, the kitchen is tiny and has no counter space. Tyler is modeling our ikea sofa nicely in the living room, and the extendable dining table already had one extra leaf placed in it in preparation for our lunch guests today.

The view from the living room: Before


This is the view of the living/dining/kitchen room from the opposite corner. Tyler is blocking the kitchen sink because it is directly next to the front door. The kitchen is tiny, but it has the most crucial appliance that was a non-negotiable part of our apartment in Australia: a dishwasher! The doors to the left of the front door are closets for our laundry, including a sink and some cabinets. Another thing we love about this apartment is all the storage!!

The view from the living room: After



We bought a fridge and microwave and have added a little splash of color with the pillows and throw blanket on the couch. You'll also recognize our ikea-chic signature style with the expedite shelves serving as the living room entertainment center. Some styles are so easy to assemble we just can't give them up.

The master bedroom view one: Before


This room is a lot smaller than either of our bedrooms in Kuwait, but I LOVE that this master has large sliding doors and a little balcony. It lets in so much light! There is a teeny little bathroom just past the door on the right.

The master bedroom view one: After


Since the room isn't all that big, we knew we would have to be economical with our furniture. We decided to get the Brimnes bed from ikea, the same one we had in our guest bedroom in Kuwait. This bed is so awesome because there is soo much storage in it! The headboard has bookshelves and there are four big drawers under the bed. We don't have room for a dresser, so we're using the drawers under the bed as our chest of drawers and the closet (behind the wall on the left) has a great organization system where we can store all...well...my clothes. The Mister's go in the closet in the guest bedroom. tee hee



We went for a grey and turquoise theme in here since we couldn't paint the walls. We also were at a bit of a loss of what to do with the canvases from our wedding, so where better than over our bed? The photos under the canvas are of us from our high school graduation, our wedding day (yes, again), last summer's family photo session, and some graffiti we found in Rome. I know it'll sound conceited, but this is my favorite photo display in our apartment.

The master bedroom view two: Before


This was the view of the master bedroom standing in the bathroom doorway.  The bathroom is too small to be able to get a shot of it. Sorry. It has a toilet, a sink, and a shower. Pretty run of the mill. Use your imagination.


One thing that is almost as hard to imagine as it is to accurately photograph is the teeny tiny sink in the bathroom! So small that we can't even put a toothbrush holder next to the faucet, and I always soak my legs and the floor when I'm washing my face at night because my face doesn't even fit within the area of the basin!


The master bedroom view two: After


Tah dah!

The guest bedroom view one: Before


It's funny how small this room looks before we put furniture in! This is the view of the room across from the door. This was a tricky one to furnish because we needed a double size bed for guests as well as a desk for both of us to use to write our papers.

The guest bedroom view one: After


Ikea saves the day again! That twin size guest bed actually has a trundle that pulls out and makes it a double size AND it has two big storage drawers underneath! Perfect! We have dubbed this room "the travel room" because it has all the artwork we purchased on our various trips over the years.

The guest bedroom view two: Before


Here is, obviously, the view of the room from the door.

The guest bedroom view two: After


This is our teeny little office, y'all! This room further earns the title of "travel room" because it has our scratch-off map, Australia freshly revealed. Next to the map are photos of us in some of the locations we've visited in the world. It's another one of my favorite corners in the apartment.

The kitchen: Before


That's right, there is approximately one square foot of counter space in that tiny kitchen! This kitchen layout was really common in the new-construction apartments that we looked at. I guess builders are designing apartments this way to make the space seem bigger. I guess it sort of works....as long as you don't like cooking.

The kitchen: After


It looks like people actually live here! I thought that we would have a love/hate relationship with this whole open concept layout. Would it be possible to hear the TV if someone was cooking in the kitchen? How loud would the dishwasher be?

Turns out, we love this open concept! The dishwasher is super quiet, so quite that I actually have to put my ear up to it sometimes to see if it has finished running. The hood fan is loud when we are cooking, but it doesn't prevent someone in the living room from hearing the TV; it just prevents the cook from hearing any conversation. Plus, having the kitchen constantly in our line of sight means we keep it cleaner. Friends from Kuwait will attest to our tendency to just close the kitchen door and ignore Monday night dinner dishes for...ahem...a day...or more.

My favorite nooks:


 We call this the "home wall." We had a gallery like this one in our dining room in Kuwait and I think it is going to be a tradition in all of our homes from here on out. I've always been a fan of the over-stimulating galleries of photos in an eclectic collection of mis-matched frames. Ok, so all these frames match pretty well, but only because I refuse to spend more than $2-3 on a frame that is only going to be in our apartment for two years. Thanks, ikea!


We call it the home wall because it has images of all the people and places that make us feel at home. Family members both blood and chosen are featured on both walls and this wall has a Hatch Show Print poster (tres Nashville), a vintage "Greetings from Nashville" postcard poster, and a print of the WSM radio tower that is at the exit we take off the interstate when we re driving home.


The other wall has another Hatch print and a poster I bought off etsy when we were living in Saudi Arabia. Lots of frames are still empty because I'm waiting on prints from this summer's family photo session as well as a few more snapshots to be delivered. I was really tired of having massive blank walls, so I put all the frames up as place holders for when the images come in. 


This is a photo we found on our trip to Egypt last Christmas and I just LOVE it! It is from a collection of photos taken by two men named Lehnert and Landrock that traveled around Egypt and North Africa in the 1920s. I just love how the man is looking at the woman. And she is smoking! We never saw Arab women smoking cigarettes in all our years in the Middle East, and the man seems to be just as mesmerized as I was by this.

I love our kitchen island, I love our iron deer head key holder, and of course I love the Sunflowers print that has hung in every place I have lived since leaving home for college. It's touches like these that make every place we live in the world feel like home.

Vicariously yours,


Friday, August 14, 2015

Our Money Struggle: The Long Story

Alright, so as previously mentioned, our bank back home (we're calling it Fells Wargo) made it extremely difficult for us to access our money when we first arrived and needed to pay our deposit and first month's rent on our apartment. Here's the long version of how it all went down.

Thursday: We found a great apartment and told the real estate agent that we would like to call dibs. All we needed to do was sign the paperwork and transfer our deposit and rent over to the agency so it could officially be claimed as ours. We set an appointment for 2pm on Friday to take care of that.

Thursday afternoon: Just to be sure, I called Fells Wargo to update the travel warning on our account so no transactions got blocked and to make sure there would be no funny business with transferring our money over to Australia. Lo and behold, there would be funny business. The extremely friendly and concerned call center lady (no sarcasm there, the folks over a Fells Wargo actually are friendly and as helpful as they can be) put me on hold while she polled the audience to figure out a work around.

So as it turns out, if I were living in a country in Central America, southeast Asia, or India I could have easily transferred money to myself. Fells Wargo has a system set up so workers in America that are supporting family back home can easily send their monthly wages to what most of us would consider developing countries. But because I am currently living in a stable economy, I was bum out of luck. I could transfer the money to myself, but I would have to go to a Fells Wargo branch in person.

"...I'm in Australia."

"Yeah. That wouldn't work, would it."

"Could my father-in-law go into a branch for me? He has power of attorney over our estate."

"That only works with regards to your bank accounts if you have died."

"Welp. I'm not willing to do that in order to get this apartment."

"Can you charge it on your credit card?"

"No, I've already asked because that would get me some AWESOME points for airline miles."

"Are you interested in signing up for the Fells Wargo traveller American Express credit card?"

"...no. That still wouldn't help me."

"Could you write yourself a check using a Fells Wargo check and deposit it into your Australian bank account?"

"Yes, but it would take 28 days for the check to clear here in Australia."

"Can you go to the ATM and withdraw money?"

"Well, yes, but I can only withdraw $400 at a time and we need over $4000."

"You can't just go a bunch of times?"

"Nope. You only let me max out my ATM withdrawal once a day and I need to pay this deposit tomorrow."

"Hold please."

[Really obnoxious, shrill Fells Wargo promotional hold music]

"Ma'am, you have a $400 limit on your ATM withdrawals, but you can spend up to $5000 a day on your debit card."

"...uh. That's good to know..."

"So can you just charge it to your debit card?"

"No, it doesn't work like that. I have to transfer the money over to a bank here. Money doesn't actually change hands here. The money is deposited straight into a government-monitored real estate trust so that there isn't any funny business with landlords. The system is set up to protect me."

"And you can't charge it to your credit card?"

We weren't getting anywhere. Finally, after about 2 hours on the phone with Fells Wargo, the solution we decided on was that I would buy a cashier's check for the deposit and rent and turn around and deposit that into my bank account so I could transfer money over to the real estate agency.

Friday mid day: I head out to the post office to buy a money order (they don't sell money orders or cashier's checks at grocery stores here), only to find out that my Fells Wargo card was being blocked.  The less than sympathetic people at the post office say it must be a problem with my bank. Or maybe it's a problem with their system. Maybe I could go to another post office. Or maybe I should try to buy a bank cheque.

"...what is a bank cheque?"

"It's like a money order, but you buy it from a bank."

My blood pressure spikes and I angrily call Fells Wargo as I head toward a bank close to the real estate agent. I am assured that Fells Wargo didn't block the transaction and they don't know why it didn't go through.

Friday 2pm: I'm supposed to be sitting in the agency office signing my lease right now. But I'm not. I'm standing in a branch of my Australian bank trying to buy 2 bank cheques. The transaction is once again blocked. I am once again pissed. The helpful lady at my Australian bank calls Fells Wargo to see if she can talk to them bank-to-bank, but they won't disclose anything about my account to anyone but me.

I storm out and call Fells Wargo again. I am fuming at this point. I'm embarrassed. I've been to two different establishments to try to do a simple transaction and I can't. I'm supposed to be an upstanding renter and yet I can't even be on time with signing my lease.

Friday afternoon: After literally an hour on the phone with Fells Wargo, I find out that the banks in Australia run the bank cheque transaction as a cash withdrawal as opposed to a debit transaction (I have NO idea what the difference is between the two), so could they just not do that?

Nope. Turns out they can't. I am defeated. I go to the real estate agency, apologize profusely to our agent and explain my embarrassing story. He is very polite about the whole thing and says that if we can at least get the first month's rent to him by Monday he can take it off the online listings and we can move in.

Ok. New goal.

I get back on the phone with Fells Wargo. Can they please increase my cash withdrawal limit just once so I can do this one transaction and be done?

"We have a maximum cash withdrawal limit of $2,000..."

"That would be perfect! If you can up my limit to that right now I can still pay my first month's rent today!"

"Hold please."

[again with the shrill hold music]

"Ma'am, I'm very sorry but I cannot increase your cash withdrawal limit at this time."

All the bad words. I wanted to say all the bad words at that moment.

"Why not?"

"I...I just can't."

"Ok, is there a supervisor or someone I can talk to? You realize that this is MY money? I have worked and saved for months so I could use MY money for this exact purpose and Fells Wargo is now holding MY money hostage while I am in a time of need overseas."

"I am sorry ma'am. We cannot increase your cash withdrawal limit at this time. It might be an issue with the system. Maybe if you try tomorrow?"

"Ok, see it is already tomorrow where I am right now. It is coming up on the end of business on Friday here in Australia and it's not even midnight where you are Thursday, so 'tomorrow' is not going to help me over here."

"Right, but if you call back after midnight here, maybe the system will let us increase your limit."

At this point I have NO idea why "the system" hated me, but I was reaching my BS limit. I waited exactly 20 minutes for it to pass midnight on the west coast and called Fells Wargo again.

This guy, bless his heart, had no idea the snark he was signing himself up for when he answered my call. I explained my situation for the millionth time ("I'm in Australia, yadda yadda yadda") and he checked if I could increase my withdrawal limit. No dice, but he did have a recommendation for something that might help me since I am a frequent traveller.

"Seth, I'm going to stop you right there because I know you're going to try to offer me the Fells Wargo traveller American Express credit card and I am not going to sit through that sales pitch again. It is not a solution that is going to help me and American Express is literally not accepted ANYWHERE in the world but America these days and I don't want a credit card."

"...ok..."

After much hemming and hawing, Seth asked if my husband was around because maybe he could increase HIS withdrawal limit.

A glimmer of hope!


That quickly fizzled. No dice. Maybe if I tried back after the open of business on Friday?

I stayed awake until 1am Saturday morning and called Fells Wargo probably 4 more times trying to see if I could trick someone into upping my withdrawal fee. I had the pleasure of a brief conversation with Jeff, a trainee in Charlotte, North Carolina who was very stumped with my situation and I could hear his supervisor feeding him Fells Wargo approved answers over his shoulder.

Finally, before going to bed defeated, I was able to get a hold of one of our close friends who lived on the eastern seaboard and he agreed to go to his own Fells Wargo branch and transfer the money over to us. I was able to send him reimbursement quite easily because THAT is something Fells Wargo is happy to let me do online. According to the teller at his branch in DC, the money would leave Fells Wargo immediately and it would be up to my bank in Australia as to how long it would take to arrive in my account.

Surely an American business day and a whole weekend would mean the money would be waiting for me as soon as business opened on Monday morning in Australia.

Nope.

Monday morning: Monday rolled around and in our account sat the same $100 we'd used to open it a week before.

I called my Australian bank and was told it could take as much a 10 business days for an international bank transfer to go through.

TEN BUSINESS DAYS!? I timidly call our real estate agent again and tell him that I still don't have the money but I was still working on it.

I call Fells Wargo again just to see if I would get lucky and up my withdrawal limit. I beg my Australian bank to let me buy bank cheques on debit or credit. I plead with the post office. And finally the Mister says it: "Maybe you should call your parents."

It's the nightmare of any full grown adult. I hate having to admit money troubles to either set of parents, but technically this wasn't a money problem so much as a bank problem. I called my parents to see if they could quickly go to a Western Union and wire us money. I would reimburse them immediately. They were happy to help.

Western Union, however, was not. All branches were closed in Nashville. It would have to wait until my evening when North America woke up again for business. So while I slept that night, my parents went to their local bank branch, which also happens to do Western Union transactions, and wired me a buttload of money.

Tuesday morning: I had already been advised to go to a major post office to pick up my wire transfer because the smaller branches wouldn't have that kind of cash on hand. So I trudge up to the biggest post office branch near the airbnb we were staying in and explained my situation. They will definitely be able to help me, but not until 3 or 4pm this afternoon because they don't have that kind of money on hand at the beginning of the day.

SON OF A!!!

I start to panic. I had checked my Australian bank account when I woke up and the Fells Wargo transfer still hadn't gone through. I compulsively checked my account again as I walked out of the post office and THE BANK TRANSFER GODS HAD SMILED DOWN ON ME! The money was in my account!! All of it!

I danced my way to my nearest bank branch, bought the bank cheques and FINALLY delivered the money to our agent!

The photo I sent to Tyler when I finally got in to the apartment for the first time. 

At the end of it all, it was only a 4 business day saga, but considering we went from "never late with the rent" tenants to "I promise we're good for the money" tenants in the eyes of our real estate agent, it was humiliating and very stressful.

Lesson learned, kids. Don't bank with Fells Wargo if you ever plan to move overseas.

I told you it was a long story.

Vicariously yours,




Saturday, August 8, 2015

Melbourne: SOOO many lessons learned already

Lesson #1: American banks are NOT easy to work with when you aren't in America or in a developing country.  So when you move overseas from America you get mixed messages about what to do with your American finances. Keep the bank account? Close the bank account? The Mister and I decided to keep our bank account Stateside because it would allow us to transfer money to friends and family (a la group Christmas gifts, etc) and we could maintain some form of credit while being overseas.

HOLY CANOLI is it ever difficult to get your money out of those American banks once you have left! Well, I can only speak to the difficulty I had with our bank which will remain un-named. Let's call it Fells Wargo.

So I had transferred all our money from Kuwait to our Fells Wargo account before we left and figured I could easily transfer it to my Australian bank account once I had established one (see lesson #2). Nope. It was a FOUR DAY ordeal to get OUR money out of our Fells Wargo account and to us so that we could pay the deposit and first month's rent on our apartment. In the end, we had to have a friend transfer the money to us while we simultaneously had my parents Western Union us the money because the bank transfer was going to take too long. The full story will get its own blog post for those that want to hear it.

Lesson #2: You can't get a bank account without an Australian address. You can't get an address without a phone number. You can't get a phone number without a bank account.  To say the first couple of days in the country were maddeningly confusing is putting it lightly. I mean, I get it. You don't want to do business with just anybody. But are we seriously the only people that had come to this country with nothing but big dreams and the promise of a grad school program starting in two weeks?!

Thankfully the owners of the airbnb we stayed in were super cool and allowed us to use their address to establish our bank account which got the ball rolling on everything else. I don't know what we would have done had we stayed in a hotel!

Lesson #3: The trams lie. In general, the public transportation in Melbourne is not designed for out-of-towners. There is one phone app that can be handy when planning your trip from point A to point B, but if the trams are included on any part of that journey, you need another app to help you navigate that part of your trip and heaven help you if buses are involved!

The bus lines don't show up on Google maps, so you could be standing 10 feet away from a public transportation point but never know it.

The trams don't stop at every stop during non-peak hours, which seems to just be a tacit understanding among tram users here 'cause it sure ain't posted anywhere!

Sometimes there is construction at an existing tram stop, so they move the stop to a temporary one like 25 feet BEFORE the original tram stop and you don't realize it until after you have passed both and you're screwed.

As previously mentioned, the trams don't stop at all the stops during non-peak hours, so you have to keep an eye on where your tram is and pull the cord or push the button to let the driver know you want to stop at the next one. That means you have to know what the stops before yours look like so you can recognize your surroundings and pull the cord at the right time. But what if you've never lived in this city before? That's where the TramTracker app comes in handy, unless you're wanting to stop at a temporary tram stop and you don't know it because YOU'VE NEVER LIVED IN THIS CITY BEFORE.

Lesson #4: Random things don't play on YouTube here. In Kuwait we could watch all the Comedy Central clips with no problem, but they won't play here. I wonder if it's because you can get Comedy Central on cable television here so they're trying to force you to buy it instead of watch it for free? Eh, either way, we just kick ZenMate into gear and enjoy unfettered YouTubing via VPN.

Lesson #5: Everything works on the left side. I had never noticed it before because this is my first time living in a country that drives on the left, but we tend to follow the rules of the road even when we're not on the road. On a sidewalk in America, if someone is coming toward you, you go right so they can pass you on your left side (unless you're on a super crowded sidewalk; then it is a toss-up and things get awkward). On the escalators in America, you stand to the right and let people pass on the left. Same generally goes for bike paths and things like that.



Not here! You stand on the left of the escalators because when driving on the highway you pass on the right (I assume). It took us a couple days to realize we were being Those People.

Lesson #6: Rentals don't come with a fridge here. They also don't come with a washer or a dryer, but that's also not assumed in American rentals, so we weren't surprised by that lesson. Also, dishwashers aren't always a given (not unusual by American rental standards), but often times there is space and the hookups for a dishwasher, you just have to bring your own (unusual by American rental standards). But no fridge?! Really!? Australia is the place to move if you're in the refrigerator business!


Thankfully we found a delightful business that specializes in refurbished and factory second-hand appliances and were able to get our fridge, washer and dryer, and microwave for *just* under budget!


Learning the Lessons after moving to a new place is, strangely, one of my favorite parts of living overseas. Even though it can be very frustrating and lonely at times, its lessons like these that separate you from the tourists and get you one step closer to being a local.

Vicariously yours,



Friday, August 7, 2015

I think I'm gonna like it here

My fascination with Australia is long standing. We did a unit on Australia when I was in elementary school. The father of one of my classmates was Australian and he performed "Waltzing Matilda" for us and explained that hearing that song is enough to make every Aussie "want to swim back home." I had a pen pal from Orange, New South Wales when I was a kid and I remember getting Australian currency and a Christmas card from her as she described having Christmas in 45 degree heat. It was one of my first lessons in Fahrenheit and Celsius.

I have always had Australia on my List. I still can't believe that the Mister and I are actually living here.

It's been a tough introduction to the land down under. Two weeks after we got here, Tyler's grandmother died. Then as soon as he got back from the funeral he came down with a horrible stomach flu which I promptly also caught. Getting into our apartment was an ordeal deserving of a blog post all its own.

Even though it has not been completely smooth sailing, I can tell that we are really going to like it here.

There is so much interesting architecture. This is a train station!

 We LOVE our apartment, even though it is the smallest place we have ever lived. We don't need much, and it makes cleaning SO easy. There is a grocery store literally 20 steps from our back door and a fresh vegetable market two doors down. The neighborhood we live in is very international, with a large Asian population, so there are tons of yummy Thai, dumpling, ramen, and Korean restaurants just steps away. We won't be able to frequent them very often because food is expensive here!







The urban street art is great in this city! As I understand it, there are streets dedicated to street artists where graffiti gets left up permanently as an ever-changing gallery.

And, of course, my personal favorite:





GREEN!! There are PARKS! And they're HUGE! And there isn't a wall surrounding them! And people can take their dogs there! And they're in the middle of the city! With an array of flora and STATUES and public performances and...and...and...




It's wonderful! When Tyler and I decided to leave the Middle East, we said that where ever we go next in the world from now on need to have PPB: pork, parks, and bars. It's not like we eat bacon with every meal or go drinking every weekend, but we just missed being surrounded by green, being able to meet up with friends for a happy hour every now and then, and the divine joy a perfectly grilled bratwurst can give you on a warm summer evening.

We have been able to partake in two of those three things since we landed. We're working on the whole make-friends-to-meet-up-with-for-happy-hour thing.



I live in a place with FAIRY TREES, y'all! I don't even know what that is but I am SO EXCITED!

I am really looking forward to exploring this city more and finding new favorite hang outs. More updates to come with photos of the apartment once everything has been put up. Our shipment from Kuwait is in the country, we are just waiting on it to clear customs and get delivered. Hopefully that'll happen soon.

Till then I remain

Vicariously yours,


Monday, July 27, 2015

That last hug

Earlier this summer we lost a former colleague and good friend unexpectedly. Death is never easy, but that one was especially bitter because she was so young and we had selfishly enjoyed the luxury of saying "our paths will cross again," as expats are wont to do when we hug each other at the start of each summer. You never know when, but the world is small and we are bound to see each other again.

Until a loss prevents you from getting that last hug.

It has happened again. The Mister and I have faced a lot of loss in the 5 years since we left home and this morning that horrible shock struck again. We woke to a message from Tyler's sister telling us that his sweet Grani Noni had passed away suddenly while we slept.

It's not fair that we went for so many decades with no loss and then when we decide to go off and live our dreams we are haunted by the nightmare of having this goodbye be the last goodbye.

But the goodbyes we say to grandparents are always tinged with a little more love because we truly never know. Tyler and I had rolled the dice with this move to Australia. We have no jobs. We have no income. We weren't coming back for two whole years. In the past two years we've said goodbye from afar to an aunt, an uncle, a friend, and a grandfather. Surely fate would take it easy on us for a little while.

Tomorrow, however, I put Tyler back on a plane to return to the States just 15 days after we arrived Down Under for him to say goodbye in person. God bless credit cards and their airline rewards miles.

Adulthood sucks, y'all. There's no way around it. I am so grateful, though, that one of us is finally going to have some of the peace that comes with getting to grieve while facing the people you love instead of looking at a computer screen. They can sell it as much as they like, but Apple can never replicate the healing that comes from real FaceTime with your Mama when her hug is all that can soothe the ache.

So hug your grannies tight, y'all. And if your grannies aren't around, hug whoever is next to you because there's an expat somewhere in this world that wishes they could have that one last hug and you might as well hug for them.

Vicariously yours,




Sunday, April 19, 2015

Egypt: Where do I start?

Once again, this blog has gone silent. It's not for a lack of things to post about, it's a lack of time to process everything we've seen and done in these last few months and to find the time to put all those feelings and experiences into words. So I've got a lot of catching up to do. Let's start waaay back in the December: Christmas break.

I'm not sure where to begin with our impression of Egypt. Friends and family that have travelled there before have given it rave reviews. You see Egypt in the movies and it is exotic and bustling, but all those movies are set in the '30s or the time of Lawrence of Arabia. I honestly expected Egypt to be more of what we have grown accustomed to in Saudi Arabia or Kuwait: a little modern, just dusty.

I could not have been more wrong!

It is a lot like the rest of the Middle East in that there is Arabic, mosques, and hijabs everywhere. But it was totally different than the Middle East that we live in because of the stark lack of luxury. Egypt was a lot more Third World than I expected, but I found it kind of refreshing. I walked away intrigued, and I definitely want to go back. I want to plop myself in places around the country and just watch. The whole country was a curiosity to me. I loved it.

The Mister, not so much.

He doesn't like crowds, and Egypt specializes in crowds. Especially in Cairo. The traffic and overcrowding in Cairo was astounding. Tyler said Egypt was like a training session for a trip to India. It felt that crowded.

Here are some of the funny things we saw in Cairo that you just don't see anywhere else in the Middle East:

The Pyramids
Alright, so It's not funny so much as AMAZING, but I had to include a few photos of the Pyramids. Duh. This was our view out our hotel window on the first morning in Egypt. It was foggy. Maybe it was smog. It's unclear.
 We stayed at the Guardian Guest House in Cairo and it was AWESOME! It's not a luxury hotel by any stretch--it's really just a step above a hostel--but it was tied for first as my favorite hotel on our whole trip. The hotel has an unobstructed view of the Pyramids from every window and a rooftop that looks out onto the Pyramids and the Sphinx. I seriously could have sat on that roof every day of our two week vacation and been a happy girl. I cannot recommend the tour company we used, Real Egypt, enough. Samir, the owner, made our vacation amazing and found these little hotels for us that I never would have known about otherwise.



The Sprawl




This is not a photo from 1985 that I found on a Google image search. This is from our vacation in 2014, and most of the cars we saw were rocking the pre-90s look.




According to our tour guides, since the revolution, Cairo has exploded. The city was already the biggest in Egypt before 2011, but after the fall of the government, unregulated building boomed and farmland that used to surround Giza has now turned into unfinished high rises. Apparently you only start to pay tax on your property after the construction is complete, so landlords are just not finishing their buildings while renting out crummy apartments on what used to be a small tract of farm land.



I loved that if you got high enough up in the city, you could always see the Pyramids. I was glad to see that Egyptians were respecting that old no obstructed views ordinance of days or yore.

Side streets with awesomeness



Anthony Bourdain ate at this restaurant. Tyler was super excited.

Ok, to be fair, all major cities have cute side streets with awesomeness, but Cairo's character was especially great. 

I really wanted to go in.

Animals in front of carts...or sometimes on them.

I can only assume this poor guy was on his way to the butcher. Also: Letting your child ride your dead camel to ...uh... anywhere? Apparently that's a thing in Egypt. 

It was not unusual to see donkey-drawn carts on the major highways as well as the small side streets throughout the city of Cairo. Well, mainly on the outer edges, not so much on the deep downtown. It was still unexpected.

People. Everywhere.


Gotta get somewhere? Walk your way in the opposite direction of traffic up the highway exit ramp while texting on your way to meet your taxi bus that is parked ON THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY at an unofficial taxi stand/bus stop/place to get into strangers' cars. 

And while you are on your walk up the exit ramp, stop and the makeshift convenience store that is literally propped up against the concrete barrier on the side of the road. 

Pigeon Towers


Pigeoning is a popular hobby in Egypt, especially in Cairo. It was pretty cool, actually. Guys raise their pigeons on these towers on the roofs of their apartments buildings and train them to fly around the city and...do tricks? I'm not certain of that last part, but I did see lots of young men on these towers waving flags and flocks of pigeons flying toward them--ok that sounds totally lame but I promise it looked cool in person.


Moral of the story: I really enjoyed Cairo. Even though it was incredibly polluted and covered in litter, I found the whole city intriguing.

Vicariously yours,